Tango in the tundra
Karl Önning takes you to the wild north of Sweden, where giant char have a soft spot for the dancing daddy
THE SCANDINAVIAN mountain range is one of the oldest on Earth and home to one of Europe's most distinctive alpine environments. In Sweden, above the mountain birch treeline — typically between 700-1,000 metres above sea level — the forest disappears, mobile phone coverage fades away, and the landscape opens into a vast panorama of rolling tundra, boulder fields and rugged peaks. Up here, nature sets the rules — the landscape and its wildlife are shaped entirely by the changing seasons and the weather.
Summer in the Swedish mountains lasts only a couple of months, from late June until the end of August. Yet during these brief weeks, the landscape explodes into life. As the snow retreats and the ice finally releases its grip on mountain lakes and streams, the alpine tundra awakens almost overnight.
For the fish that inhabit these lakes, it marks a period of intense feeding activity
A window of opportunity: life bursts into action in northern Sweden.
Mountain heather, dwarf willow and other hardy plants bring colour to the vista, while reindeer, alpine birds and millions of insects take full advantage of the short but incredibly productive season. The massive insect hatches also bring life to the crystal-clear mountain waters. For the fish that inhabit these lakes, it marks a period of intense feeding activity, and no species embodies this more than the magnificent Arctic char. With its vivid orange belly and perfect adaptation to cold, nutrient-poor waters, the Arctic char has become a symbol of the brief but vibrant mountain summer.
Of course, insect hatches also bring mosquitoes. At times, they emerge in numbers that seem almost impossible to believe. This might not be a destination for anyone who struggles with biting insects, and even the most hardened mountaineer can occasionally find their patience tested. Insect repellent helps, but the very best defence is a good mosquito jacket combined with a pair of thin, bug-proof gloves.
In the northernmost parts of Sweden, above the Arctic Circle, the sun never sets below the horizon during this part of the summer
For the hardy only.
The mountain weather is unpredictable too, with conditions that can change without warning. A bright, sunny morning may turn to heavy rain, thick fog or strong winds in just a few hours, while temperatures can suddenly fall to a few degrees above freezing. Because of this, it's worth packing a few comforts for occasions when staying inside the tent is a necessary choice. A deck of cards, a game of Yahtzee or a good book can become valuable pieces of equipment.
In the northernmost parts of Sweden, above the Arctic Circle, the sun never sets below the horizon during this part of the summer. Further south, it disappears behind the mountains, but the nights remain bright, with twilight lingering throughout the night. It is the absence of mobile phone coverage, the constant exposure to the forces of nature, and the endless light that make this mountain environment and its incredible fly-fishing so addictive and unforgettable.
Even when rising freely, char can be frustrating.
Planning your trip for either the beginning or the end of the mountain summer offers the greatest rewards, although it also comes with a greater risk of difficult conditions. For successful Arctic char fishing, two factors matter more than anything else: water temperature and a little luck with the weather.
The char shift their survival instincts to active feeding
The Arctic char are true cold-water creatures, which is why they are even more popular among ice anglers during winter than with fly-fishers in summer. Shortly after the ice breaks up, and before the lakes have had time to warm, the first hatches are dominated by chironomids, stoneflies and blackflies. Char begin to feed on the surface, but normally only during shorter windows. They remain cautious, conserving energy for the feeding frenzy that lies ahead.
When the first real summer warmth reaches the mountains, everything changes. As water temperatures climb above 10 deg C (50 deg F), aquatic and terrestrial insects emerge in vast numbers, with caddisflies being the most populous. The char shift their survival instincts to active feeding. The priority is simple: eat as much as possible before the long winter returns. If you happen to arrive at the right time, lakes that seemed almost dead can suddenly erupt with rising char, many of which can be trophy fish.
The end goal — Karl, with a big and gorgeous Arctic char.
Timing depends largely on weather conditions and, perhaps even more importantly, on elevation
There is, however, one condition every angler wants to avoid: the water becoming too warm. During the hottest weeks of summer, water temperatures in lower-elevation lakes can climb above 15 deg C (59 deg F). This has become increasingly common in recent years. At this point, Arctic char become less active, seeking deeper, colder parts of the lake instead of rising confidently to surface insects. Fishing can quickly become challenging.
As a rule, the latter half of July and the first week of August tend to be the least productive period for dry-fly fishing. That said, every season is different. The timing depends largely on weather conditions and, perhaps even more importantly, on elevation. High-altitude lakes warm considerably later than those lower down the mountain and often remain cool enough to provide good fishing throughout the warmest part of the summer.
Of course, water temperature isn't the only factor. The dry-fly angler also hopes for calm conditions. Wind is almost a constant companion in the mountains, but it often eases as evening approaches — even in the far north. It is therefore worth turning your daily routine upside-down: fish early and late, and rest in the middle of the day. Some of the best fishing is just as others are preparing to sleep.
The Swedish tundra provides a banquet that’s released in just a few months of the summer.
A natural daddy longlegs; one of the char's favourite meals.
Many anglers that spend time in the mountains often experience the same frustrating situation: Arctic char and brown trout that rise confidently all around the lake during a hatch yet seem to refuse every traditional dry-fly you offer them. In these moments, a cranefly imitation has repeatedly proven to be my key to success — not just once, but time and time again. The Swedish alpine tundra is home to around a dozen larger species of craneflies (Tipulidae), all of which represent an important food source for birds, small mammals and fish.
A struggling cranefly drifting helplessly in the surface film is simply too good an opportunity to ignore
Craneflies spend most of their lives as larvae — typically two to three years — living in damp soil environments such as lake margins, stream banks, wetlands and alpine meadows. When summer arrives, the larvae pupate and emerge as adult craneflies. Under favourable conditions, large numbers hatch simultaneously. Their adult lives are brief, lasting only a few days to a couple of weeks, during which they mate before the females lay their eggs. The adults are notoriously poor fliers. Gusts of wind or sudden rain frequently knock them onto the water's surface, where their long legs, clumsy body and rather small wings make it almost impossible for them to regain flight. For an Arctic char, a struggling cranefly drifting helplessly in the surface film is simply too good an opportunity to ignore.
Over the years, friends and I have experimented with several different cranefly imitations. We discovered one overriding conclusion: the most important feature of the pattern is how it sits in the surface film. Patterns that lie flush in the surface film consistently attract more interest than patterns tied with a stiff hackle — whose elevated footprint more closely resembles a cranefly standing on the water — rather than one stranded in the surface.
KARL'S KILLER CRANE Hook Size 12 Hanàk H500BL Thread White Textreme Power Thread (25 denier) Abdomen Created with brown Wapsi Superfine Dubbing, diluted wood glue and a dubbing needle Thorax Tan 2mm Hareline foam Legs Chocolate Wapsi Ringneck Pheasant Tail Wing Whiting High & Dry, dark barred ginger Hackle Grey Hareline Premo deer hair strip
Watch Karl tie his Killer Crane here
With that in mind, I developed Karl’s Killer Crane featuring a flexible extended body made with Superfine dubbing and a hackle of spun deer hair. Using Superfine dubbing, a dubbing needle and diluted wood glue, it is possible to create extended bodies that are both durable and remarkably lifelike, to produce a natural silhouette on the water. Yet, the extended body is flexible — and therefore natural to touch — with a good hook-up rate.
Rather than using a traditional rooster hackle, I spin deer hair in a dubbing loop to create legs that also provide buoyancy. This technique allows the fly to sit deeper in the surface film than most conventional cranefly imitations, giving a far more convincing impression of a drowned or exhausted cranefly. Such detail is important in demanding conditions and when the fish are picky.
I, along with my fishing friends, have done the hard yards. We’ve put up with changeable weather, the hikes and the mosquitos, yet we are seduced back to the tundra and to the stunning and often giant char that inhabit its lakes and streams.
Fishing beneath a sun that never sets is an experience like nothing else. The calm water, eerie light, active caddisflies and rising Arctic char create unforgettable moments that remain with you long after the journey is over. It’s a special place that should be experienced, but also a place that should be understood, respected and protected. Go there and you will see what I mean.
Waiting for a rise under the midnight sun.
Plan your trip to the Kiruna Mountains
For anyone dreaming of fishing in some of Sweden's most remote and untouched mountain waters, contact Andreas Mikko (pictured above) at Arctic Heli & Lodge Mattaráhkká. Email: mikko@arcticheli.se; Web: arcticheli.se Born and raised in Kiruna in the north of Sweden, Andreas, known to most as "Mikko", has spent his entire life exploring, hunting and fishing in the surrounding mountains. With decades of experience and an extensive local network, he has an exceptional understanding of how weather, water levels and seasonal changes influence fishing throughout the region.
Arctic Heli specialises in transporting anglers by helicopter into remote lake systems and mountain streams where fishing pressure remains low and opportunities to catch wild Arctic char, brown trout and grayling are outstanding. The company's philosophy is simple: "We fly you to places where no one else is."
Sustainability is at the heart of the operation. Rather than concentrating anglers in a handful of famous waters, Mikko spreads his groups across the whole region’s lakes and streams. This not only provides a true wilderness experience but helps protect sensitive fish populations from excessive pressure.
Lodge Mattaráhkká and the helicopter base.
From the moment you arrive in Kiruna, the team can assist with airport or railway transfers, equipment rental and professional guiding, if required. Before and after your trip, Lodge Mattaráhkká — located next to the helicopter base — offers comfortable accommodation and excellent food. And after a week in the mountains, few things feel better than a hot sauna with an ice-cold Coca-Cola, while reliving unforgettable days on the water.
PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEOGRAPHY: KARL ÖNNING
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Karl Önning
Karl Önning is a Swedish fly-fisher specializing in Scandinavia’s salmonids. He is passionate about innovative fly-fishing and fly-tying techniques. As a Loop Tackle ambassador, Karl shares his fishing experiences, practical insights, and fly patterns on social media.
