THE JUNGLE'S RHYTHM
Marina and Stephan Dombaj discover unforgettable cuisine and fierce predators in the heart of the Amazon Rainforest
SOME FISHING trips are just about fishing. Others celebrate everything on the periphery: the location, the people, the food — and how these all blend together. There is, however, one place that combines every element. Whenever I’m asked what my favourite food is, or what my last meal would be, my mind goes straight to Manaus in Brazil, and its delightful Amazonian cuisine. The fishing, too, is thrilling, with species ranging from vibrant peacock bass through to monstrous arapaima.
As the largest and best-connected city deep inside the Amazon rainforest, Manaus is a major flight hub. Travellers heading to remote jungle lodges or rivers usually fly into the city first, then continue by smaller plane or boat. It is the gateway to the region.
Door-to-door service.
There’s no sense of civilisation — just a lodge sitting in the middle of nowhere
Scanning the channels in low water.
I’ve visited Agua Boa Lodge twice. It’s a 90-minute charter flight northwest of Manaus. As you depart, things start to feel noticeably more remote as you head off-grid, towards the Venezuelan border and deeper into the upper Amazon. Landing feels surreal: there’s no sense of civilisation — just a lodge sitting in the middle of nowhere. The plane touches down on a simple strip, pulling up beside a wooden walkway barely 100 metres from the lodge doors, and that’s it — you’ve arrived.
These fish may look pretty, but they are aggressive, hard-hitting predators
The fishing
Fishing on the Agua Boa River is incredibly visual, though I’ve experienced it in contrasting conditions. During my first visit, the river was heavily flooded, and we were casting deep into trees, logs and branches that would normally be on dry land. There was little to sight-cast at, and no fishing the beaches or wading. The water was about two metres above normal level.
My second visit was the complete opposite. The river was so low that the boats had to navigate narrow channels; one wrong move would leave us stuck on sandbanks. Thankfully, these low-water conditions were perfect, giving us the opportunity to sight-cast to bright peacock bass visible from a distance. These fish may look pretty, but they are aggressive, hard-hitting predators. When they strike, you know about it — the feedback is immediate. This helps to build confidence, as you typically get quite a few hits and chances throughout the day.
Prepare to navigate the jungle on foot and by boat.
Prepare to navigate the jungle on foot and by boat.
The fishing
Fishing on the Agua Boa River is incredibly visual, though I’ve experienced it in contrasting conditions. During my first visit, the river was heavily flooded, and we were casting deep into trees, logs and branches that would normally be on dry land. There was little to sight-cast at, and no fishing the beaches or wading. The water was about two metres above normal level.
My second visit was the complete opposite. The river was so low that the boats had to navigate narrow channels; one wrong move would leave us stuck on sandbanks. Thankfully, these low-water conditions were perfect, giving us the opportunity to sight-cast to bright peacock bass visible from a distance. These fish may look pretty, but they are aggressive, hard-hitting predators. When they strike, you know about it — the feedback is immediate. This helps to build confidence, as you typically get quite a few hits and chances throughout the day.
In the jungle, you’re not just focused on the fishing; there’s always something going on around you
The fishing is nicely balanced — some days it’s all about numbers, while on others, you’re putting in the work for a bigger fish. This unpredictability, for me, is part of the appeal.
And it’s not just peacock bass you’ll be catching — you’ll encounter arapaima, vampire fish, pacu, and catfish — a real mixed bag of species that are as exciting as they are beautiful and, in some cases, peculiar-looking.
A big peacock —19lb of dynamite.
In the jungle, you’re not just focused on the fishing; there’s always something going on around you. There are birds squawking, dolphins splashing, otters calling and turtle hatchlings emerging — all creating a constant background hum.
Be prepared
These Amazonian jungle species range from a few pounds for the smaller peacock bass to the possibility of a 300lb arapaima. It’s therefore worth having multiple set-ups on the boat, ready to respond to the situation. A sinking line is great for searching deeper pockets, particularly in lagoons and when the water is on the high side.
For surface action, a dedicated popper rod will let you take full advantage of explosive topwater takes. Alongside that, a brush fly (a fly whose body is created with a synthetic dubbing brush) set up on an intermediate line will cover mid-depth water effectively.
Redtail catfish, one of many species to catch on the fly
Redtail catfish, one of many species to catch on the fly
Be prepared
These Amazonian jungle species range from a few pounds for the smaller peacock bass to the possibility of a 300lb arapaima. It’s therefore worth having multiple set-ups on the boat, ready to respond to the situation. A sinking line is great for searching deeper pockets, particularly in lagoons and when the water is on the high side.
For surface action, a dedicated popper rod will let you take full advantage of explosive topwater takes. Alongside that, a brush fly (a fly whose body is created with a synthetic dubbing brush) set up on an intermediate line will cover mid-depth water effectively.
Usually, I’m the one listening to stories of such days, but this time, I was right in the middle of one
I usually carry an eight-weight with an intermediate line (either tip or full), a nine-weight with a sink tip, and a ten-weight with a full-floating line for casting big poppers and Pole Dancers. I pair these set-ups with a large-arbor reel to bully fish clear of structure and land them as quickly as possible. I’m a big fan of RIO’s warm-water predator lines.
One of my most memorable days in the jungle started before sunrise. Our guide took us on a three-hour boat journey upriver to a remote lagoon. The ride was so smooth I managed a quick sleep en route. The fishing that followed was nothing short of incredible. I caught fish after fish, from huge peacock bass to redtail catfish. Usually, I’m the one listening to stories of such days, but this time, I was right in the middle of one.
Stephan preparing multiple set-ups for another day of unknowns.
Stephan preparing multiple set-ups for another day of unknowns.
I usually carry an eight-weight with an intermediate line (either tip or full), a nine-weight with a sink tip, and a ten-weight with a full-floating line for casting big poppers and Pole Dancers. I pair these set-ups with a large-arbor reel to bully fish clear of structure and land them as quickly as possible. I’m a big fan of RIO’s warm-water predator lines.
One of my most memorable days in the jungle started before sunrise. Our guide took us on a three-hour boat journey upriver to a remote lagoon. The ride was so smooth I managed a quick sleep en route. The fishing that followed was nothing short of incredible. I caught fish after fish, from huge peacock bass to redtail catfish. Usually, I’m the one listening to stories of such days, but this time, I was right in the middle of one.
Patterns to take
On this trip, sport was thick and fast, so we could experiment with flies and retrieves — even trying some of the more absurd patterns we’d brought along. One was a propeller fly, which caused plenty of commotion as it cut through the surface. Watching fish absolutely nail this was unreal.
One can never have enough flies in this game: topwater, midwater and deeper-sinking pattern are needed.
I’d suggest bringing a versatile mix of proven saltwater patterns. Hooks are typically in sizes 1/0 to 4/0, and must be strong, sharp, saltwater-proof and capable of handling big fish. Fly colours should include chartreuse, white, black, red, orange and anything that will pop in the tannin water.
Focus on a mix of classic brush flies and baitfish patterns, including unweighted and weighted versions and heavy jigs for getting down quickly when needed. Essentials are Flashtail Whistler, Game Changer, Andino Deceiver, NYAP (Not Your Average Popper), propeller fly and Pole Dancer. For arapaima, pack a couple of large flies (Beast-style patterns), unless they’re your main target, in which case, bring more.
Peacock bass love topwater flies.
A classic Whistler is highly visible in tannin water.
The bow-and-arrow cast
MY FAVOURITE cast when fishing for peacock bass in the jungle is using the bow-and-arrow cast. It almost feels primitive, like you’re hunting rather than fishing. If you get it right the fly will ping into the little pockets, straight and fast, exactly where it needs to be; places you’d never reach with a normal cast. And when you find a real hot spot with loads of fish — all fired up — it’s chaos. Cast, eat, cast, eat — repeatedly, until they start getting clever, of course!
See how to perform a bow-and-arrow cast.
Make the most of Manaus
The fish market in Manaus.
Even from the UK, getting to Manaus is a straightforward, albeit long, journey. If you book early, flights typically cost between £1,000 and £1,500.
When you land, take your time, rather than treating Manaus as just a stopover. I recommend staying two to three days to acclimatise to the tropical jungle weather, but also to sample the delicious food; it really is a highlight.
Two restaurants I’d recommend are Banzeiro and Caxiri, both offering a great introduction to Amazonian flavours without feeling touristy. At Banzeiro, try the saúva ants — as you bite into them, a citrusy burst is released, with a flavour almost like lemongrass. We were told they’re rich in protein, fats, and minerals — though that was perhaps erring on the side of persuasion for those around the table unsure of whether to try them.
Pickled ants on mash.
Amazonian staple: Tambaqui ribs, rice and forofa.
Tacaca, a local specialty.
Cassava, a starchy root vegetable, is akin to a firm potato or a slightly dense sweet potato when cooked. The tambaqui ribs are also good. These are thick, meaty cuts of Amazonian river fish, similar in appearance to pacu and typically grilled or roasted. The fish is round-bodied, with dark, glossy scales, and the ribs are satisfyingly meaty.
In Caxiri, the freshwater sardines are fried crispy on the outside, but soft on the inside. Their ceviche is fresh and sharp. The shrimp soup, tacacá, has a distinctly Amazonian twist, thanks to jambu, a local herb that leaves a gentle, tingling numbness on the tongue from its natural active ingredient, spilanthol. And then there are the Farinha de Uarini: small, chewy balls made from cassava. I loved them so much I brought a few bags home.
Honestly, I’d have them on my morning cereal if I could. They’re brilliant on salads, too, and surprisingly good with meat and fish. It’s not just restaurant food, though — the street food scene is just as interesting, and often where you’ll find the most authentic dishes.
Wide-ranging experiences
In many ways, travelling is one of the fastest ways to accelerate your progress as an angler. For a first-time explorer, jungle fishing is a great choice. Crucially, it’s forgiving fishing — you don’t have to be the best caster to catch. This takes the pressure off. In fact, sometimes the loudest and splashiest cast will tempt more fish.
Peacock Bass are not shy of skinny water.
Another benefit of an intensive week’s fishing abroad is how quickly you can improve. With 50-65 hours typically spent on the water, you’ll make noticeable gains in your casting, technique, and understanding of the fishing. Just as importantly, what you learn can often be applied back home with your local species and waterways.
The jungle is also a great option if you’re not keen on long walks or feel unsteady on your feet, as much of the fishing is from a boat. And what surprises most people is how easy the logistics are. Once you arrive, everything is taken care of — transfers, guiding, food, and the itinerary. So, although you’re in a remote part of the Amazon, it doesn’t feel overwhelming.
Certain destinations are expensive because of everything around them: the level of service, the logistics, the reliability of the fishery, and the overall quality and quantity on offer. But if you’re happy to roll the dice, especially on the comfort of the lodging and the transport, you can find peacock bass fishing that, aside from the international flight, is cheaper than fishing in your backyard.
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY: STEPHAN DOMBAJ
If you’d like to join Marina and Stephan on a trip to the Amazon, do get in touch. Email: info@earlyriserstravel.com
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Marina Dombaj
Marina Dombaj is a certified FFI casting instructor, guide, author and passionate conservationist. She runs The Northern Fishing School at the Swinton Estate inYorkshire, which now teaches fishing to over 400 people each year. An ambassador for Loop Tackle, Marina uses social media to promote fly-fishing in a positive and engaging way. In 2024, her book Cast, Catch, Release was published.
